Transition to Raw Dog Food

Changing an animal’s diet too quickly can result in diarrhea. In addition if your dog has been eating a dry diet for years they will need time to turn back on the digestive enzymes needed to process and digest raw animal protein. Be patient, go slow and read on for tips from the leading Veterinary on feeding a species appropriate diet for dogs and cats.

raw dog food with Dr. Karen BeckerBy Dr. Karen Becker, DVM
I’ve had several dozen clients that either learn what’s really in their pet’s food, or realize the brand they’ve been feeding is actually quite terrible, and they go home and throw it out. Owners then seek out and  purchase a human-grade raw food, and their pet loves it.

But then the dog or cat becomes sick after a few days, and off they go to the veterinarian. Here’s where raw dog food starts to get a bad rap! Most vets erroneously blame all cases of diarrhea on the bacteria in the raw food versus the sudden dietary change, causing the veterinarian and the owner to panic unnecessarily.

Also, dogs and cats process raw foods and kibble very differently. Raw food is processed as a protein, held in the stomach for an acid bath, unlike kibble, which a dog or cat’s body views metabolically as a starch. If raw foods are added to dry foods for a meal, there can be digestive confusion, resulting in gassiness and belching.

When introducing any new food to a pet with a healthy gut, I recommend using the new food as a treat for a day, and keeping an eye on the condition of the stool. Increase the number of new food treats over the next several days and continue to watch the stool. If the stool remains normal, keep moving forward with treats until you replace one whole meal of dry food with raw food. Do this for several more days, and if the stools remain normal, it’s safe to discontinue the dry food and feed only the whole fresh raw food.

Preparing Your Dogs Gut for The Raw Diet
Edited and Revised by Wendy Lefebvre

Acidophilus (Lactobacillus acidophilus) is a common, well known form of healthy bacteria (intestinal flora) that belongs in the digestive tract of every mammal, working with the body to protect it and aid in the digestion of food. These safe, necessary organisms are an important piece of the “total health” puzzle and can even help prevent disease and alleviate illness. There are a lot of phenomenal benefits that come with supplementing our dog or cat with probiotics, but the exceptional boost to their immune system alone is worth making probiotics an addition to your dog or cats nutrition program!

Supplementing your dog or cat’s diet with probiotics can act as a form of therapeutic treatment for a variety of health problems. It can also be a preventive measure against the bad bacteria overwhelming your dog or cats digestive tract which ultimately makes them sick. Many holistic veterinarians, nutritionists and traditional veterinarians will recommend probiotics to help combat and prevent bacterial infections and digestive disorders. By reinforcing the beneficial bacteria in your dog or cats gut, probiotics act as a safe way to keep harmful bacteria under control by allowing the strong beneficial bacteria to compete with the bad bacteria and ultimately prevent the wrong bacteria from flourishing.

Probiotics can also help alleviate symptoms of allergies by strengthening the digestive system and the immune system to prevent allergic symptoms from arising when the dog or cat is exposed to allergens. A stronger immune system means the body is able to better handle the allergens the dog or cat has been exposed to, ultimately soothing symptoms or even potentially eliminating allergies all together. When you remind yourself how allergic reactions work, it will make more sense to you. Allergic reactions occur when the weakened immune system detects something and labels it as foreign or a threat, which in turn creates a variety of symptoms as the body fights to get rid of it. A stronger immune system means better overall immune system function. A strong immune system is not prone to allergies.

Probiotics can be very beneficial in helping to treat bacterial infections by safely supporting a distressed intestinal tract. Providing the body with beneficial bacteria will help the good organisms overrun the bad ones, and can help your dog or cat recover faster. Paired with a 24 hour fast and feed bland home made meals that are easy on the body, you may be able to let nature run its course safely and quickly. If your dog or cat is suffering from a potential bacterial infection and shows no improvement or worsens after 48 hours, please go see your veterinarian immediately for a diagnosis and treatment. Our dogs or cats may need help getting healthy again! Once your dog or cat is healthy again, starting them on regular probiotic supplementation can help prevent more infections of the intestinal tract.

Probiotics can help alleviate bad gas, prevent bad breath and will help make your dog or cats body function better. This occurs as a direct result of proper balance in the digestive system, which is where the very important absorption of nutrients occurs. Any dog or cat of any age can enjoy the benefits of probiotics, so consider adding them to your dogs or cats diet for a stronger, healthier body!

SOURCES OF PROBIOTICS:
Lot’s of great probiotics supplements on the market to add to your dogs diet. Research and find the one that is right for you.

Although some do use Yogurt, we don’t recommend it as it’s usually full of sugar (which will feed any yeast) and other ingredients not suitable for a dog or cat.

Kefir (Goat milk Kefir is preferred, but regular milk Kefir that you find in the grocery store can be used as long as it’s plain, all natural, unflavored and free of sugar).
DOSAGE: 2 Tablespoons kefir daily given, on its own or at least one hour before a meal.

What to Purchase?
Prey Model Blends with Or Without Tripe 

Prey Model Blends
Beef Blend with Organs
Chicken Blend with Organ
Turkey Blend with Organs
Raw Box Prey Model – 5 Varieties

Prey Model with Added Tripe
Wolf Run Plus
All Star Bully
Senior Pro For Any Age with Added Chicken Feet for Joint Support
Chicken Tripe Complete
Raw Box Tripe Blend – 5 Varieties

Like Veggies? Try Our BARF Model Blends
Beef Blend Healthy Variety Mix
Chicken Healthy Variety Mix
Turkey Health Variety Mix
Raw Box Health Variety Mix – 5 Varieties

How to Start the Transition to the All Raw Diet
Use the Meatball Method:
SPOON OUT 1/7th of your dogs overall daily food allowance. For example: If your pup eats 20 ounces a day you will divide 20 by 7 = 2.86 ounces.  This is the size of each meatball. You will feed meatballs in between your current food until the amount of meatballs equal half of your pups feeding allowance. For example: If your pup gets 20 ounces of raw food per day then you will be feeding 10 ounces in the morning and 10 ounces for dinner.

When meatball amount equals the amount of one meal – you will no longer feed that meal of kibble. You will replace that kibble meal with the new raw meal. Note: If day 4 the amount of meatballs exceeds one meal of raw, you will save that meatball until dinner time. Feed raw meatball 1 hour before or after the remaining kibble food. Remember you are increasing raw and decreasing kibble throughout the 7 day transition.

Day 1 & 2 Feed (1) meatball as a treat. In between kibble meals.
If no vomiting or diarrhea move on to next day. If digestive upset occurs hold at this amount until pup is back to normal. 
Day 3 – Feed (2) meatballs. Reduce kibble.
If no vomiting or diarrhea move on to next day. If digestive upset occurs hold at this amount until pup is back to normal. 

Day 4 – Feed (3) meatballs. Reduce kibble.
If no vomiting or diarrhea move on to next day. If digestive upset occurs hold at this amount until pup is back to normal. 
Day 5 – Feed (4) meatballs.  Reduce kibble.
If no vomiting or diarrhea move on to next day. If digestive upset occurs hold at this amount until pup is back to normal. 
Day 6 – Feed (5) meatballs.  Reduce kibble.
If no vomiting or diarrhea move on to next day. If digestive upset occurs hold at this amount until pup is back to normal. 
Day 7 – Feed (7) meatballs.  You should be on full raw by this time.

 

Take a look at the feeding chart. Rule of thumb is to start by calculating 2.5% of your dogs optimal weight. For instance if your dog weighs 75 pounds but should weigh 60 pounds, then calculate your raw food on 2.5% of the 60 pounds. You can adjust from there. These are just starting points. Depending on your dogs breed, age and activity level you may need to adjust up or down in the food requirements for your dog.  You want to see a waist but not the ribs. You want to feel the ribs but not extra fat under the skin.

Download – Raw Dog Food and Company Feeding Chart

 

Raw Dog Food and Company How much raw to feed, Raw Dog Food feeding Chart

Adult Raw Dog Food Feeding Chart

Raw Dog Food Feeding a raw diet to puppiesPuppies should be fed anywhere between 4-7% of their body weight split into 3-4 or sometimes even more meals per day depending on age.

When puppies are four to six months old, they require a great deal of food and a little extra edible bone as they are building their adult teeth. Do not let puppies get too thin (no ribs showing) at this important age as their energy demands are tremendous when cutting new teeth.

Larger breed puppies need to grow at a slower rate for bone and joint health. Never allow puppies to become roily-polly or too skinny. All puppies will need constant supervision and weekly weigh in’s so you can adjust their food up or down.

If puppies poop is runny this may be an indication that you are feeding too much raw food at one time. Try spacing the feedings out to 3-6 times a day.

Feeding Chart for Puppies

Yes Puppies Need Bones Too

Puppies adapt quickly after they are weened. From about three weeks of age they start to take an interest in what their mother is eating, by six weeks of age they can eat chicken frames, rabbits and fish.

During the brief interval between three and six weeks of age it is advisable to provide ground chicken, or similar (the meat and bone should be ground together). They should also have access to larger pieces to start to encourage them to rip and tear to build jaw strength. Meat off the bone can be fed, but only for a short time, until they can eat meat and bone together — usually at about six weeks of age.

From six weeks of age, you can feed chicken wings as the bones are soft enough for puppies to build up jaw strength. Chicken wings should have the wing tip cut off at the third joint so as not to become a choking hazard. Make sure to add in muscle meat to bring up the 80-10-10 ratios. Some raw fish is also a good starting food for puppies as the bones are soft and pliable.

Many veteran raw feeders give their puppies spilt or whole knuckle bones and allow the puppies to chew themselves to sleep. This builds up jaw strength and teaches them to chew. We always advise to monitor your puppy with any bones.

Between four and six months of age puppies cut their permanent teeth and grow rapidly. At this time they need a good variety of proteins. We suggest the “Prey Model” blends plus raw meaty bones of suitable size.

MEAL PLAN:

Choose any of the Prey Model Blends. The Raw Box Tripe Blend has 5 different proteins and has the green tripe mixed in. Green Tripe is a wonderful natural probiotic and balances the Omega 6 and Omega 3 ratios.

You will want your puppy up until 6 months old to have 15% bone ratio in his diet.  Most of our blends are 10% so feel free to at 5% more bone per meal.  Supplement with Chicken Feet for extra bone. Give 1-2 feet per day.

Feel free to experiment with different proteins. You can start out with one protein like chicken or beef but we suggest that you don’t continue to feed the same protein for longer than 3 months.

If you feed blends that don’t have the tripe included try feeding Sardines to balance out the Omega 6 and Omega 3 ratio’s.  Feed 1 ounce of sardines per 50lbs of your dogs weight. Adjust accordingly for puppies.

how much raw dog food to feed puppies raw dog food and company

With our wide selection of food you can be sure your dog and or cat will find something they just go wild for.  All pets are different and all pet parents are different in regards to their finances and pet nutrition goals. But here at Raw Dog Food and Company we know you will find everything you need to increase your pet’s health, boost their immune system, decrease allergies and food sensitivities and boost the overall wellness in your home.

Your Pet’s Health Is Our Business!

All Prey Model Blends have the meat, organ and bone already mixed for you. We know you are busy and may not have the time to gather, grind, calculate and mix your own raw dog food. So we have taken the mess, fear and guess work out of it.

Got a Picky Eater?
Typically the pickiest of eaters love the blends with tripe in them:
Chicken Tripe Complete
Wolf Run Plus
Beginners Choice
All Star Bully Blend
Senior Pro
Raw Box Tripe Blend
Wolf Run
Green Tripe – Yes you can feed this twice a week as a stand alone meal!

Dog Love Veggies?
Shop the Barf Model Category
Chicken Heathy Variety Mix
Duck Healthy Variety Mix
Beef Healthy Variety Mix
Turkey Health Variety Mix

Need to Keep Cost Down?
Shop the Bulk Blends (Bulk is 40lbs packaged in (4) 10lb bags)
Chicken Blend Bulk
Beef Blend Bulk
Turkey Blend Bulk
Beginners Choice
Wolf Run – (Note this blend doesn’t not have bone)

Can’t Keep Weight On Your Dog?
Try Shepard Blend with 30% total fat
Great for working dogs and high metabolizers

Have a Senior that Needs Joint Support?
Try Senior Pro
Add some sardines or mackerel for added omega 3 and reducing joint inflammation

Want Great Healthy Treats that Aren’t Shot Full of Gamma Rays (Most Commercial Treats Are!)
Shop our No Preservative, No Additive, Simply Air Dried Treats

Already feed lots of Raw Meaty Bones?
Try our Boneless Blends with Meat and Organs
Boneless Chicken Blend
Boneless Beef Blend

Like to Blend In or Rotate Your Own Organs?
Try our Organ Free Blends (Note dogs must have organs to be complete and balanced in the raw diet)
Venison
Course Ground Beef With Bone
Ground Turkey Necks

Want to Choose Your Own Organs to Go with Your Organ Free Blends?
Beef, Turkey, Lamb and more!

How about Feeding Something Different or Unique? 
Try our Lamb Blends
How About Bison?

If you are purchasing blends without tripe, we suggest purchasing Sardines or Mackerel to balance the Omega 6’s in the animal meat with Omega 3’s in the fish.  When Omega 6 & 3 aren’t balanced inflammation can occur in your pup.  (Read more in our section on Why We Suggest Adding Sardines and Mackeral).

We currently deliver every two weeks so at the very minimum you need 15 days worth of food from delivery to delivery. Or you can buy a months worth of food or however much your freezer will hold!

Here’s how you calculate your bi-monthly and monthly food needs.

Step 1. You find on the feeding chart that according to your dogs weight you should be feeding approximately 20 ounces a day.

Step 2. For 15 days of food –
Multiply 20 (ounces) x 15 (days) = 300 ounces then divide by 16 (to get pounds) = 18.75 pounds of food.

Step 3. For 30 days of Food
Multiply 20 ounces x 30 = 600 ounces and divide by 16 = 37.5 pounds of food.

We always suggest buying slightly more than you think you will need until you have been on raw for at least a month. Dogs fluctuate in how much food they need or don’t need once they switch from kibble to raw.

By Meghan Leah Waals/Raw Feeding Advice and Support

A freeze dried raw company called Stella and Chewy’s is a popular food for those wishing to add raw into their companion’s diet. Founded in 2003 the company proudly displays “a little raw goes a long way” on their packaging. Although their intentions are good in helping to introduce the idea of raw to the average pet owner and consumer, this statement is extremely misguiding unfortunately.

On a standard commercial diet of dry kibble or canned food we find the pH levels of the stomach acid are greatly reduced to about 4-5 pH reaching an alkaline level (this meaning the acid is more basic than acidic). This is caused by the high quantities of carbohydrates in commercial pet foods. This isn’t just grains, but fruits and veggies too. So even your grain free brands aren’t safe from these alkalizing affects.

Furthermore, this “traditional” diet, being made of ingredient’s not suitable for our carnivore friends, lowers their immune system. Just imagine if you ate McDonald’s all day every day, you probably would not be the healthiest person. You probably get sick more often and feel icky compared to if you ate a balanced diet primarily of fruits and veggies (which are suitable for an omnivorous diet). It works the same for our companions. If they are constantly spending tons of energy on ingredients that are taxing to digest, then the body’s focus isn’t on health or a quality immune system.

On a diet of raw meats, organs and bone, the pH of the stomach is at a normal level for a carnivore, around 1-2 pH. Unlike fruits, veggies and other plant matter, meat is acidic so that when it is consumed the stomach acid becomes acidic. Unlike commercial, overly heated and over processed diets, a raw diet is a natural diet that these animals would consume in the wild, heck even as feral animals on our domestic streets would seek raw foods. This diet being species appropriate is conducive for maintaining a high immune system that can fight most illness and disease and deal with other stresses.

So what does this mean for your companion? An alkaline stomach acid has a lessened ability to neutralize and destroy bad bacteria. This is why so many pet foods are removed from the shelf when a recall of listeria or salmonella is announced. Normally, if that animal were on a raw diet they would be able to handle the bacteria load, neutralize it and destroy it often never being affected by the actual bacteria.

When one feeds a mixture of raw and kibble, the stomach acid can never reach that very acidic level that could kill the bacteria. Instead the body is still in a depressed state actually making them more susceptible to illness and disease. Furthermore, because the commercial kibble contains inappropriate ingredients that do not digest as well and takes more effort for the body, digestion rates differ between raw and kibble. Kibble can slow the elimination of waste as well as cause digestive upsetting which can include vomiting and diarrhea.

Long story short DO NOT MIX RAW AND KIBBLE.  Transitioning to raw can be quite easy and cost effective. Not only that but even if your companion has been on kibble it’s whole life it only takes 7-10 days for their stomach acid to reach a level that is normal for a carnivore. AMAZING!

Small Oily Fish

Fish in general is a great source of protein, calcium, selenium, niacin and Omega-3 fats for your dog. They contain a wealth of nutrients as your dog eats the brain, eyes, organs, thyroid, stomach, bones, muscles and much more. Many coastal wolf populations have been observed eating raw fish as a majority of their diet. More importantly, giving whole fish is a much better way to give your dog Omega-3 fatty acids than fish oil, which is very unstable and can easily become unstable and rancid.

Feeding small wild caught fish will help you avoid heavy metals in your dog’s diet. Larger fish that are higher up the food chain can be contaminated with toxins like mercury and PCBs (carcinogenic chemicals called polychlorinated biphenyls), and should be avoided.

The solution is to give your dog the smaller fatty fish like sardines, smelts, herring, mackerel and anchovies. Our suppliers freeze them for a minimum of two weeks before selling to customers, to avoid any parasites that may be in some fish.

Fish is an excellent source of protein rich in omega 3 fatty acids, which have health benefits like antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, aiding your dogs joints and all round mobility, Fish is also known to have beneficial properties for your dog or cat’s skin. It is relatively low in saturated fats, making it a brilliant source of nutrition alongside other meat proteins. The best two omega 3 fatty acids for dogs and cats, eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), are found in the oils of fatty fish.

How Much Fish Can I Feed

Whole fish is classed as whole prey 80/10/10.
You can feed these fish whole and raw, frozen or thawed depending on your dog’s preference.
Many raw dog food experts suggest feeding your dog a whole meal of just fish once a week.
Or you can feed a whole days allowance of food in fish, spread over a few days, so if you feed 20 ounces of raw food per day, feed approximately 3 ounces worth of fish per day over the next 7 days.

Sometimes dogs and cats don’t like the texture of fresh fish. If they refuse it this way, try either mixing it with other proteins or feeding it frozen

Information from True Carnivores.com

Benefits of Giving Raw Bones

  • Raw bones clean teeth like no other chews in the world.
  • Raw bones can take a long time to chew and when your dog has eaten all the meat, the bone can last for weeks!
  • Raw Bones are rich with minerals such as calcium and phosphorus.
  • Raw Bones remove plaque naturally and helps to keep gums and teeth strong.
  • Chicken cartilage such as wing tips, feet, and carcasses are great for added glucosamine in your dog’s diet.
  • Meaty bones can be used as a meal replacement.
  • Raw Bones are a great mental stimulation/chew therapy for your dog or puppy.

Types of Bones

“Toothbrush Bones”: Bones such as knuckles (the knee bones), or ribs are best for cleaning teeth because of their shape and the meat on them acts like floss!

“Recreational Bones”: These bones can also be knuckles, shanks, or turfemurs that due to their shape and composition, provide hours of chewing action.

“Meal Replacement Bones”: Bones such as Elk necks, Lamb necks, Turkey necks, and Beef meaty femurs have tons of meat so your dog’s get a tasty and stimulating meal

 

What to Watch Out For

  • Aggressive chewers should be given softer bones in case they over chew and grind their teeth down. Soft bones include knuckles, chicken bones, turkey necks, rib bones, and other small animal bones.
  • Remember to ALWAYS supervise your dog with a bone until you know what kind a chewer they are.
  • Dogs will attempt to hide their bones by burying them so that they ferment. This completely normal and healthy for your dog!

Choosing The Right Bone

  • Choose the right size bone for your dog: If you are not sure which size of bone to get for your dog, choose a larger size to be safe. A bone that is the size of your dog’s head is a good start and once you know what kind of a chi-with-bonechewer your dog is you can head to smaller sizes.

First time bone chewers such as puppies should be taught how to eat a bone. Choose a stick shaped bone such as a turkey neck, or beef ribs. Hold one end of the bone and let your dog chew on the other and pull away if it seems like your dog will try to swallow the whole thing! Through this process, much like a mother wolf might, you teach your dog how to patiently enjoy a bone.
Given enough time, your dog will eat the whole bone! If your dog eats too much bone however, their stools may come out chalky and hard or if the bone was too rich they may have loose stool. If you suspect they ate too much adding pumpkin to their meal will do the trick. To avoid eating too much bone, you can give it to them in several sittings so that they don’t eat the whole thing at once.

NO Cooked Bones!!!

Cooked bones are dangerous as they become very hard and brittle which increases the likelihood of them breaking and splintering into sharp pieces.

Cooked bones are also very difficult for dogs and cats to digest as the bones lose all of their nutritional value.
Smoked Bones are also dangerous as they often have additives such as artificial flavoring and preservatives

Are Digesting Bones Dangerous?

Information From Raw Feeding Advice and Support.com
Compiled by an article written by Dr. Bruce Syme BVSc(Hons)
Source via: http://www.vetsallnatural.com.au/digesting-bones-gastric-acidity-salmonella-dogs-cats/

The digestive system and digesting bones gastric acidity. Digesting bones and gastric acidity. Gastric Acidity, Digesting Bones, Gut Transit Time and Salmonella. There has been much debate about the “potential” dangers of feeding bones to cats and especially dogs, and also of the potential risks of food poisoning and salmonella infection that the feeding of raw meat to dogs and cats may carry. So it may be of interest to note that much of this information, or mis-information, relates back to the very nature of the gastric environment of the dog and cat, which in turn, is directly related to diet.

The gastric acidity (gastric PH) of the stomach of a dog or cat eating a diet predominantly made up of raw meat is very low (very acidic), with a PH of 2 or lower (relative to the level of meat protein). This highly acidic environment favours the breakdown of raw meats, and raw bones, into soft digestible material. The low PH also is highly effective at killing bacteria, particularly potentially pathogenic bacteria like salmonella spp, clostridia, campylobacter and E Coli. So the natural ‘wild” diet of dogs an cats has evolved a gastric environment that favours the breakdown of raw meats, raw bones, and a PH that kills potentially harmful bacteria – consistent with the requirements of carnivores, and in particular, the scavenging nature of dogs.

Also matched to this highly carnivorous diet (raw meat diet) is a very effective digestive process, which occurs in a relatively short gastrointestinal tract. Dogs and cats have a significantly shorter GI tract compared to other non meat eating (herbivorous) animals, whereas man has an intermediate length. The relative length of the gut reflects that nature of the diet, and how efficiently or slowly the food is broken down and absorbed. Fresh raw meat is easily digested and absorbed compared to vegetable matter, and as such, carnivores have a short gut, and rapid gut transit time – fresh meat can be digested and processed in the carnivores body in as little as 8- 12 hrs, whereas plant and vegetable material in a herbivore’s gut can take 3-5 days to be processed.

What we see with the advent of processed pet foods, is a significant change in the general nature of ingredients in the diet. It is a simple commercial fact that meat protein is the most expensive component in any pet food, and as a result, there is always commercial pressure to keep meat protein levels to a minimum, thereby keeping costs down of the end product (and / or maximising profits). Modern processed pet foods have adapted to these financial constraints firstly by significantly increasing the carbohydrate component of dog and cat foods – corn, wheat, rice, potatoe and other forms of carbohydrate are often the first and most major ingredient in many pet foods. Secondly, processed pet foods have also begun to substitute meat (animal) proteins with plant based proteins that are much cheaper – ingredients like Soya bean and lupins are cheap sources of protein that will increase the overall protein % on the label, but without the associated increase in cost. The problem with this type of substitution is that it does directly impact on the digestive environment of the dog or cat.

In dogs and cats that eat these diets with high carbohydrate, high plant protein and lower meat protein, we find that the acidity level of the stomach begins to decrease (gastric acidity relates to meat protein), and the stomach becomes progressively more alkaline (PH 4 and above). In this less acidic environment, several key issues arise;
1. With the altered PH, gastric digestion and emptying slows down
2. With the altered PH, food bacteria and contaminants are not destroyed as effectively
3. With the altered PH, raw bones and bone material is not softened and broken down effectively (digestive enzymes loose function) and this can result in obstruction.

These problems become clinically apparent when a cat or dog that is fed a highly processed diet is offered a raw bone, or a meal of raw meat. Because the stomach acidity is directly dictated by the meat protein content of the diet, these cats and dogs all ready have a less acidic stomach, which is not able to soften and breakdown raw bone material, nor is the stomach PH able to cope with a load of bacteria. The result can be a sudden “rejection” of the bone or meat, in the form of vomiting, or it can take the form of a bout of acute gastroenteritis, from an overgrowth of bacteria, or it may result in a bone obstruction in the stomach. With the delayed gastric emptying effect, any bacteria that do survive are also able to grow up into much larger numbers, and this effect is continued in the large bowel, with further fermentation of the plant fibre, and a delay in overall gut transit time (up to 24 hrs cf 12 hrs) – this can also result in constipation from excessive water reabsorption, or in loose stools from the over production of short chain fatty acids in the colon. The problem is that it takes from 7-10 days on a meat based diet for the gastric acidity levels to drop down to the natural (preferred) PH 2 level, so it is not possible for the body to quickly accommodate to such diet changes. What we learn from this are a few fundamental feeding tips :

1. If you intend to feed fresh meat or a raw food diet, you must make this change gradually over 7-10 days – a common complaint we hear is from people who feed bones or fresh meat on odd occasions to their dog that eats primarily dry food is that “he/she cant handle fresh meat or bones because she vomits” – as we see from above, these dogs can handle it if it is introduced gradually, and the gastric acidity is allowed to normalise.

2. If you intend to feed raw bones (which I strongly advise as an important part of every day pet health) then you must include some fresh meat every day as part of your overall diet plan to make sure the gastric PH remains low (acidic)

3. Feeding a raw food diet will actually protect your dog or cat from bacterial contamination and food poisoning, and greatly reduce the chance of an obstruction from eating raw bones. It is a fact that cats and dogs that eat processed foods are even more likely to shed salmonella bacteria in their faeces than are cats and dogs that eat raw food !!

In summary, most of the dietary upsets we see that involve raw meat and bones are actually directly related to the dog or cats general everyday diet, and not so much in relation to the meat or bones. Given that cats and dogs have been eating raw meat and bones for over 40 million years, it just makes sense that this is what they will thrive on.

 

Picky eaters can frustrate even the most patient pet parents. So take your time and purchase different proteins to see what lights your pup up!

Here’s tip: The stinkier the better. Dogs primarily use their sniffers not their pallets to make eating decisions.

Purchase any blend with Tripe or purchase straight green tripe and add to blends that don’t contain tripe.

Note you can feed our tripe as a meal all by itself a couple of times a week.

Other reasons for picky eaters:
1. Pet parents are nervous about dogs eating habits and the dog picks up on the owners anxiety. Understand your dog can go 48 hours without eating and be fine. Many owners fast their dogs at least once a week for 24 hours to promote longevity and gut health.

2. When starting a raw diet your dog may not know what do to with the new food. Try this. Change the bowl, change the place and change the time of feeding. Believe it or not this very often will SNAP them right out of it.

3. Parents expecting too much too fast. Don’t give up if they don’t devour the food right away. Give them time and experiment with different proteins.

Remember if your dog has been on a dry dog food for a long time, chances are he/she may be addicted to the sprayed on sugars, salts and other flavor enhancers. Yes I would love to eat donuts and ice cream all day, and I may live but I seriously doubt I would be healthy!

It happens from time to time. Especially with older dogs who have only ever known kibble their entire lives. Some don’t like the texture of raw after their hard kibbles. But don’t fear there are many options:

1. Dogs like foods that stink! We suggest transitioning your dog with only Green Tripe for the first week. But get ready cause it does smell bad to you but great to your dog!

2. WARM it very lightly in the pan, not enough to cook it, just enough to give it a juicy smell and texture.  We do this on a daily basis for our German Shepard. Slightly warmed food aids in the digestion process.

3. Use a different bowl, feed at a different time and in a different place than where you have been feeding kibble meals. This way they don’t associate their new raw food with the former kibble high carb food.

4. Tough love (unpopular with owners, yet unlike a cat, a dog will not starve itself, it will eat what is given eventually).

Dogs that refuse raw are usually objecting to the texture and strange smell. Give it time. Experimentation is the key. Change your protein until you find something that lights your pet up!  We have many blends and proteins to choose from.

Don’t Freak Out!

One of the biggest reasons pet parents start to freak out when they start the raw diet is when they see their dog vomit or have loose stools. Don’t panic. No it’s doubtful the food is contaminated. Unless you have left it in the hot sun, out on the counter to thaw or some violation in safe food handling.

It’s simply their system adjusting. But there are times when you do need to be concered:

1. Dogs fever goes over 102.5 call your vet.
2. Dog becomes dehydrated (How to check: pull skin out from behind the front leg by the ribs. If it bounces back he’s hydrated) if skin stays in the pinched position your dog my be dehydrated.
3. Dog has low blood pressure (How to check: press on gums right above the canines.) Gums will turn white on pressure and return to pink when you stop pressing if dogs blood pressure is normal. If gums don’t return to pink, call your vet.
4. Dog becomes lethargic or disorinented please see your vet right away.

When dogs are fed a high carbohydrate diet (which all kibble is, yes even premium kibble) then the digestive enzymes needed to break down the protein,  turn off. The enzymes need time to turn back on. This process typically takes between 7-14 days. That is why we recommend the 7-day meatball transition method.

There are many reasons for diarrhoea in a dog or cat. Some are due to picking up a virus, but most are related to eating some thing that does not agree with their digestive tract. One of the most common reasons for beginners to Raw are, feeding too much variety too soon and/or introduction to organ meat.

Detox from kibble is also a culprit of the cause. Before we jump into remedies, here are some First Steps to the approach of “fixing” it.

The first step should be to revisit the percent of the Bone ratio you are feeding. Are you feeding enough bone? Some dogs need a slightly higher amount than 10%, or we might have underestimated how much 10% are. The same holds true for the organs. It is easy to feed too much too early. The Prey Model Blends all have the correct ratio of 10% bone, 10% organ.

Here are 5 solutions to curing vomiting and or diarrhea when starting to feed a raw diet:

#1 Dogs that have been fed kibble for many years, may have less stomach acid due to the high carbohydrates in kibble. Kibble does not require as much acidity to be digested.

Solution: Try feeding smaller amounts, more often, while they adjust. Also purchase a human grade digestive enzyme and add to their food to support their gut and the digestive process of raw food. This is why we suggest the “Meatball Method” for transitioning your dog to raw from dry food.

#2 Too much food at one time and over excitement about new food

Solution: feed smaller amounts over more meals. With larger cuts of beef or bones hand feed so that they gnaw on it while you hold the other end until they relax and understand this is their new food now.

Just because a dog wants more food doesn’t mean they need more food. Pet parents must be responsible owners and be cogniscent of how much your dog should weigh and then feed accordingly.

#3 Too much fat in diet

Solution: keep fat ratio’s at approximately 10% to start. Prey model blends are 10% fat. If you feed chicken necks take the skin off or feed skinless chicken. Some lamb and sheep can be high in fat. Read the fat content to be certain of what your dog needs. High performance and working dogs like Vizsla’s and German Shepard’s may need a higher fat content for energy and stamina in the field. Our Shepard Blend has 25- 30% fat and some of our Duck and Lamb blends also have higher fat contents.

#4 Too much bone can cause dogs to throw up

Solution: reduce bone content – no more than 10% to start and typically no more than 15% for adult dogs on a consistent basis. Prey model blends contain 10% bone.

#5 Too many additives thrown into the diet by pet parents. For example eggs, yogurt, coconut oil, carrots, sweet potatoes, treats and all types of supplements can cause a dogs system to go crazy. More is not always better. Solution: Keep it simple and only supplement for issues that actually present themselves. For example if your dog has been on raw for at least 3 months and his coat is dull and dry, more than likely your dog needs a digestive enzyme to help them utilize fat and proteins better. But unless your dog is showing signs of being deficient in a certain area be cautious about throwing in the kitchen sink with each meal!

Additional Ways to Not Hit the Panic Button

Fix #1: Patience

Kibble detox: let it be, the stuff needs to come out and poo will firm up once you start adding bone.

Fix#2: Fasting

Give the GI tract a 24 hr rest and then start with broth and/or green tripe or boneless chicken to ease the upset digestive system back into work.
(DO NOT fast puppies! Skipping one meal will be enough and NEVER fast a cat)

Try this Remedy

Slippery Elm

Slippery Elm is safe for Cats and Dogs! Many have found making a tea or paste of Slippery Elm and infusing it (either by mixing in food, or giving it by syringe in to mouth) will help calm the tummy and digestive tract by soothing inflammation while giving vital nutrients. Slippery Elm may absorb some medications, meds need to be given about 1-2 hrs before dosing with Syrup or Paste.

Dosing

Give a dose 30 to 60 minutes before, or with meals, to provide coating protection Give a half capsule or a half to 1 teaspoon of syrup (2.5 to 5 ml) per 15 pounds of your pet’s body weight.

For long term problems like IBS dose 3-4 times a day with or after meals, especially give 1 dose before bed time to let it work its magic overnight. Slippery Elm Paste Give 100 milligrams per 10 pounds, mixed with cold water. Slippery elm powder is very absorbent and will soak up many times its own weight in water, so be sure to add enough to make a paste. It has a mild, slightly sweet taste and is usually well tolerated by cats and dogs when mixed with food. You can also give it by syringe or eyedropper.

Slippery Elm Syrup

1/2 cup cold water and 3/4 teaspoon powdered slippery elm bark in a small pan. Mix well, to break up clumps. Simmer on low heat, stirring constantly, for 1 or 2 minutes or until slightly thickened to a syrup or molasses consistency. Cool and refrigerate for up to 7 days. Ready made syrups are also available on line. Home made Electrolyte Solution Ingredients: Six (6) level teaspoons of Sugar. Half (1/2) level teaspoon of Salt. One Liter (1 quart) of clean drinking or boiled water and then cooled – 5 cupfuls (each cup about 200 ml.)

Raw food diets usually produce small, hard balls of poop that are easily passed and turn white and crumble and blow away in a day or so if you forget to pick them up. This is totally normal. I’ve had some people go back to feeding kibble, because no one explained that their pet’s poop would radically change on a raw food diet, and that multiple huge piles of stinky poop from dry food diets would be a thing of the past. So, feces will change – and for the better. Raw food poop is entirely different from kibble-fed poop.

Pets need unadulterated, fresh, whole foods that are moisture dense. They don’t need grains, fillers, artificial preservatives, colors, additives, chemicals, byproducts, or processed foods. Although animals can eat some processed foods, they aren’t designed to consume a lifetime of dry or canned diets. The best food you can feed your pet is the freshest, most natural food you can afford to support your pet’s overall health, well-being, and vitality.

Raw food is 70 -80% moisture rich! All the moisture needed to digest raw food is contained in a raw diet.

Cooked food and dry kibble have very little moisture content and require your pet to drink and drink and drink water in order to digest those hard dry kibble and bits.

Much research into raw diets show that the moisture content of a raw food diet has a positive effect on maintaining healthy kidneys and bladder in our pets. This is especially true for cats, who are prone to kidney problems such as feline urilogical syndrome due to eating a dry food/kibble diet.

It’s all to common to hear a vet tell someone their pet is dehydrated but all you see is your dog or cat constantly drinking water. Drinking water from the bowl does not necessarily mean your dog or cat is not or cannot be dehydrated. But once your dog or cat begins to get its moisture content from the primordial diet it is eating, the chances of your pet getting dehydrated or coming down with kidney disease is greatly diminished.

Oftentimes, after one to three months on a fresh food diet, pets go through a detoxification process. This is totally normal and is actually something to celebrate.

Detox for your pet will happen through the bowels and skin. During a detox, your pet will act completely normal. He’ll be happy, bright, and alert. But you might find that he’s shedding a tremendous amount of hair. Pets shed out their old, dead, dull hair, and begin growing a shiny, soft coat. You might also see a lot of earwax or debris being produced from the ear. That needs to be cleaned out. And some detoxing pets will pass blobs of mucus in their stools.

These symptoms of detoxification will pass on their own. They’re nothing you need to worry about, but are something you should anticipate or it might freak you out. Pets on a fresh food diet also consume far less water than pets eating an entirely processed diet. You need to anticipate that your pet’s water intake will diminish.

Is your Vet really against raw or just the raw diets that aren’t balanced?

Many people throw out a chicken thigh or a scoop of raw hamburger meat and call that the raw diet. Wrong! That would be unbalanced and your vet would be right in his comment. But with the correct species appropriate ingredients, 80% protein and fat, 10% organ and 10% fat, raw diets produce amazing results and drastic changes in the lives of pets. In 17 years of feeding raw I have seen major relief from allergies, leaky gut, irritable bowl syndrome and yes even life threatening diseases disappear after starting the raw diet for dogs and cats.

Many vets just aren’t educated in nutrition. I know that may be hard to believe but we personally watched our daughter go through vet school and almost all nutrition classes were put on by Purina, Science Diet, IAMs or any number of the big commercial pet food manufacturers. How they can make a case for dead food that is full of additives, preservatives, aflatoxins and a whole host of synthetic crap as better than raw is beyond me. In my opinion they should be ashamed of themselves since they are in the business of making dogs healthy! And add insult to injury? Good and loving pet owners don’t even question that line of reasoning. We just follow like sheep to slaughter. It’s time to Snap Out of It!

Here are 3 Questions to ask your vet when they frown at you and start down the usual path of “the raw diet is unbalanced, unhealthy and full of bacteria”.

1. Ask what the difference is between handling raw food for pets and raw food for humans. Most families eat at least some meals at home each week that are prepared from raw ingredients, including meat.What’s the difference between preparing raw ground beef to barbeque on the grill, and preparing raw food for the family cat or dog? Why are there no policies discouraging humans from handling raw food purchased at the grocery store?

2. Ask why supposedly high quality pet foods including the vet prescription diets are allowed to contain fish oils that begin to go rancid as soon as the bag is open (which causes inflammation in dogs and cats plus releases free radicals that can lead to cancer and all types of disease) plus aflatoxins, GMO ingredients and synthetic vitamin and minerals that come from China? – China has very loose safety regulations. China’s pet food products are responsible for over 8000 pet deaths).

3. Ask your vet why dogs need carbs? Dogs get their glycogen from protein and fat. They weren’t not born to eat high carb diets that are the leading cause of diabetes, obesity and cancer. But carbs are cheap and dry pet foods need carbs to make the kibble stick together in the rendering process. Carbs have nothing to do with your dogs health. Read this!

4. Ask what percentage of carbs is their prescription kibble diets? Anything over 7% is too much. If they don’t know how to calculate it that is a red flag. So here is the formula: Add the protein percentage plus, moisture, plus ash, plus fat. Then subtract that number from 100. That is the percentage of carbs in that brand of dog food.

5. Ask how does a dog eat poop or dead animals and not get sick? So why would they get sick from human grade species appropriate raw proteins that are void of aflatoxins, synthetic unregulated vitamins and minerals and premixes from China plus fish oils that become toxic and rancid soon after opening the bag and being exposed to air?

We also suggest clicking on Busting the Myths About Raw Dog Food. Make sure you read the one regarding Vets and the Raw Diet.

Also listen to the Podcast How to Talk to Your Vet and What Questions to Ask

Here is another must read The Dangers of Commercial Pet Foods and What Vets Really Know About Pet Nutrition

By Jade Bossenbroek – Raw Feeding Advice and Support

One thing most people are aware of, is that most vets are anti raw. The reason why is that they know little to none about raw feeding and only learn about processed kibble during their years of study.

Most vets will get alarmed when they find that the blood test results of raw fed dogs seems to be off/ different compared to the blood test results of a kibble fed dog, and is something you should prepare yourself for in case you need to have a blood test done on your dog, as not understanding the differences of these test results can in turn result in unnecessary expensive follow up appointments.

The results below are taken from a study by Dr Jean Dodds that involved over 200 dogs of various breeds fed a raw diet for a minimum of 9 months before collecting the blood samples.

The results of the laboratory tests were compared to healthy dogs fed dry kibble diet.

Most of the readings are comparable apart from those BELOW.

Below is further information.

  • Hematocrit

Hematocrit is the measurement of the percentage of red blood cells in whole blood. Decreased Hematocrit (anemia) can be caused by poor nutrition, parasites or chronic disease including cancer and liver disease. Increased values (dehydration) are more of a concern with the dry kibbled fed dog than the raw fed dog because of the lack of moisture of the diet. Raw fed dogs are also more likely to get adequate iron and vitamin B from their higher quality protein diets.

  • BUN

Blood Urea Nitrogen is a waste product derived from protein breakdown in the liver. Low levels are most commonly due to inadequate protein intake, malabsorption, or liver damage. Increased levels can be caused by kidney damage, certain drugs, low fluid intake, intestinal bleeding, exercise, heart failure or decreased digestive enzyme production by the pancreas. Raw fed dogs typically have higher BUN levels because they consume more protein.

  • Creatinine

Creatinine is also a protein breakdown product. Its level is a reflection of the body’s muscle mass. Low levels are commonly seen with inadequate protein intake, liver disease, kidney damage or pregnancy. Elevated levels are generally reflective of kidney damage and need to be monitored carefully.

Keep this chart at the ready to discuss it with your vet.

If you are a do it yourself’er make sure when ordering products that are not “Prey Model” compliant, that you are also purchasing organs like kidney, liver or our lamb organ, beef organ or pork organ blends to mix at the correct ratios for your dog.

Don’t forget to also get enough bone in your dogs diet. You can do this through purchasing any of our raw meaty bones.

What Do It Yourself’er’s need to know:

80% Muscle Meat

Raw muscle meat from a variety of sources should be fed daily. You can feed heart as a muscle meat yet not exclusively. Muscle meat is a great source of protein, and protein contains essential amino acids, the building blocks of your dog. Muscle meat also contains a lot of phosphorus and is low in calcium. When fed with 10% bone you have the exact ratios of calcium to phosphorus required by a dog. Free range grass-fed meat is also rich in omega 3 and beta-carotene.

Organ meat – 10%

Organ meat such as liver, heart, kidneys, brains, lung, pancreas, spleen from a variety of meat sources should be fed for one or two meals per week or 10% of the diet. Liver is particularly important and should form 5% of the overall diet as it is the main source of water-insoluble vitamins in organs that a dog needs. Organs in general provide an enzyme-rich mixture of protein, B-complex vitamins, vitamins A and D, vitamin E, some vitamin C, and essential fatty acids EPA, DHA, and AA, along with minerals such as manganese, selenium, zinc, potassium and copper. Like muscle meat, organs contain a lot of phosphorus (and potassium) and are low in calcium.

Minimum 10% Bone 

Raw bones are living tissue composed of living cells and just like any other part of the body, they are a complex source of biologically balanced minerals, especially calcium, yet also copper, iodine, iron, magnesium, zinc, and manganese. It is highly probable that bones in a dog’s diet play a similar role to fibre, that is, a role of bulking out the food, thereby removing toxins and promoting general bowel health.  The easiest way to provide balanced calcium is by feeding raw meaty bones that have around 10% edible bone in them – such as whole chickens, halves or quarters, with perhaps some extra meat added in to allow for the bird having being processed (i.e. the innards missing) – a whole processed chicken is considered to be 33% bone, with some parts higher in bone content such as the wings (46%) whereas the bone-in breast portion is lower, perhaps 20%.

Common bones can include chicken frames, wings and necks (or even whole carcasses), pork necks, turkey necks, pork ribs, beef rib bones, any meaty bone that can be completely consumed by your dog. If you are feeding meaty parts then you can feed them alone, if your choices are bonier (such as chicken backs, pork necks, wings or ribs), then you will need to add meat or heart to correct the ratios.  Basically, you are trying to replicate whole prey, so look at what you’re about to feed and visualise the actual bone content – if a third or even half of it would be bone, then you know you need to add more meat.  Remember you are aiming for at least 10% bone, although for robust dogs there is some tolerance for slightly higher bone content.

Feed proteins appropriate to your dogs size and eating habits. Small dogs should get chicken wings and drumsticks while large dogs should get leg quarters or whole chickens.

Raw Dog Food order real raw dog food for Denver Delivery and other colorado locations

Friends Don’t Let Friends Feed Kibble

With raw food you know what is and isn’t in your dog food. With kibble, any kibble, even premium kibble, you don’t know what all those ingredients (that you can’t pronounce) are even good for. (Mostly nothing!)

Raw Dog Food and Company is making it easy for you to feed a species appropriate, nutrient rich raw diet. Dogs need a mixture of muscle meat, organs and bones. Choose the Prey Model Diet  or the BARF Model Diet. Take the guess work out of feeding raw and feel confident in providing the best nutrition for your pet.

It’s so easy! Just look for “Prey Model Compliant” or BARF Model Compliant listed on the products in our online store.  We’ve got everything you need from bones to treats! We provide many varieties of proteins in 2lb, 10lb, 20lb, 40lb and bulk cases.
Buy bulk and save a bundle!

Don’t wait another day to start your best friend on the purest raw and best species appropriate diet delivered right to you! If you have any questions just email us DeDe@RawDogFoodandCompany.com or give us a call.

Your Pet’s Health Is Our Business!

We have many locations to choose from. We currently deliver every other week on Saturdays.

We also have (3) delivery locations on the Thursday Nights before the Saturday delivery.

Click here to find a delivery location near you!

The simple answer is no. Why? Because we must insure the safety of raw food. Once we sell it to someone we have no way of knowing if the food was stored properly or how it was handled. Your pet’s health is our business!

That being said we will help you sell your unused food to either a local rescue or you can reach out to people at your stop and sell your food to them. Typically if you will discount the food slightly you can sell it in a SNAP!

Listen to our Podcast “The Raw Dog Food Truth”

Check out all of our episodes and  listen on demand anytime. Make sure to hit the follow button and you will be alerted each time a new episode is posted!

Read Raw Dog Food Myths so the next time you are told you are crazy for feeding your pet raw food, you can talk confidently about the raw dog food diet and who knows maybe even help change a pet parents mind and save a pets life!

Everything You Want and Nothing You Don’t!Raw Changed Our Lives
    • Connector.

      Protein Organs Fat Bone

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      Natures Whole Vitamins

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      Essential Minerals & Trace Minerals

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      VITAMIN B1 (Thiamine)

      MEAT SOURCES: Liver, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, buffalo, egg, beef, sardines. Promotes growth, improves mental attitude, aids digestion, helps strengthen nervous system and prevent stress.

    • Connector.

      Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)

      MEAT SOURCES: Liver, heart, kidney, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, egg, beef, sardines. Needed for red blood cell formation, aids growth and reproduction, promotes hair, skin and nail growth. Important in the prevention and treatment of cataracts.

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      Vitamin B3 (Niacin)

      MEAT SOURCES: Rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, egg, beef, sardines, tuna. Essential for proper circulation and healthy skin. In- creases energy, aids digestion, helps prevent migraines.

    • Connector.

      VITAMIN B5 (Panothenic Acid)

      MEAT SOURCES: Liver, heart, kidney, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, egg, beef, sardines. Enhances stamina, prevents anemia, helps wounds heal, fights infection, strengthens immune system.

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      VITAMIN B6 (Pyridoxine)

      MEAT SOURCES: Liver, heart, kidney, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, egg, beef, sardines. Needed to produce hydrochloric acid. Aids in absorption of fats, and protein. Mildly diuretic, helps prevent kidney stones. Helpful in treating allergies, arthritis, and asthma.

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      VITAMIN B9 (Folate, Folic Acid)

      MEAT SOURCES: Liver, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, ostrich, buffalo, egg, beef, salmon, halibut, haddock, sardines.

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      VITAMIN B12 (Cyanocobalamin)

      Helps prevent anemia. Protects nervous system, improves concentration, aids digestion. MEAT SOURCES: Liver, heart, kidney, rabbit, chicken, turkey, pork, lamb, goat, ostrich, buffalo, egg, beef, salmon, halibut, haddock, sardines.